"The Merch Club" Wine of the Month Club February 2004

Fattoria Laila lies in the rolling hills of the eastern Italy's Marches region near the town of Ancona, overlooking the cobalt blue expanse of the Adriatic. In 1990, Andrea Crocenzi took over the ancient property, preserving many traditional farming methods while introducing new technology in the cellar and improving vineyard plantings to bring the centuries-old estate up to date. The project gained further momentum with the arrival of Lorenzo Landi, a winemaker with international experience, who has helped Crocenzi bring his vision for the estate to fruition. Working primarily with indigenous varietals, Landi has quickly vaulted to the forefront of a growing movement toward the realization of the region's considerable potential.

2002 Fattoria Laila Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

The Verdicchio grape appears to take its name from the Latin viridis, or green, a clear reference both to the intense green color of the berries and the green highlights which are often visible in the wine itself. The Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi denomination takes its name from the many castles which dot the hillsides of this part of the Marches. Verdicchio is at home here, producing wines that are round, ripe, and perfumed, with great volume and concentration. Fattoria Laila's 2002 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi has a bright, straw yellow color, with characteristic greenish reflections. Wild white flowers and green fruit dominate the nose, which leads to an intense palate marked by fresh, ripe tree fruit, balanced acidity, and a smooth, long finish. This is the perfect wine for grilled white fish, steamed mussels, grilled scallops, and tangy goat's milk cheeses.

2001 Fattoria Laila Rosso Piceno

The Rosso Piceno denomination is the most significant, in terms of production and potential, in the Marches. The wines are comprised primarily of the region's two outstanding red varieties, Sangiovese and Montepulciano (the grape, in this case, not to be confused with the Tuscan village of the same name where Vino Nobile is produced) Fattoria Laila's 2001 Rosso Piceno was aged in 10% new wood, allowing for a softening of texture while maintaining its incredibly lush fruit. Its nose is ripe and complex, displaying aromas of juicy black plums, cherry liqueur, chocolate, and dust. Its dense texture and plush tannins coat the palate with wave after wave of jammy plums and blackberries that linger on the tongue for a long, concentrated finish. This wine has created a sensation at several major tastings, and it's currently in the running for Italy's quality-to-price ratio championship. It is a nice accompaniment to pasta with Bolognese sauce, salami and meat roasts, fish stews, and aged cow's milk cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano Vacca Rossa.